Chapter 16Another three months passed, and I was becoming an
old hand in Saigon. Not only did I know my way around town, but I
was also acquainted with the best spots to get good street food
such as that delicious soup called pho. I knew most of the street
vendors and a few of the pousse-pousse boys by name, and my
understanding of the local language was improving, though my
ability to speak it was still far from adequate.
Of course, I was acutely aware that the
natives viewed me as an uninvited interloper. I rationalized that
feeling by telling myself I was not one of the French masters the
people so resented and that I was not a permanent resident. In
short, I felt very much at home in Saigon.
Then one day, I received a letter from
Katharina, and my contentment was rudely interrupted. The letter
was about a month old, which was about the time it took for mail to
travel from the U.S. and Europe to Cochinchina in 1896. She was in
Chicago, and she was not happy. I had written her two months before
while she was still in Germany and told her that if I returned to
the United States at all, it would be to Denver and not Chicago. I
explained that after more than two years away, I needed to spend
time with my daughter and mother.
Her letter was dripping with disappointment.
And naturally, I felt guilty. It was bad enough that I still felt
guilty for having left my daughter behind in Denver. Now I had more
penance to deal with.
One evening, an Annamite man appeared at
Difranco’s house with a message for me. I had just finished writing
a letter to Katharina telling her that I had decided to return to
Denver, and that after spending ample time there, I would also be
coming to Chicago.
The man spoke no English and very little
French. He told Linh Thi and Difranco in the local dialect that Ba
was ill and wanted me to go with him and to bring along Dr. Son. Ba
was in Tay Ninh Province along the border of the French
Protectorate of Cambodia. The man would guide me to him.
“Not a good idea for you to go alone,
William,” Difranco said. “I will go with you and take a few of our
security men. That is dangerous country up there. In any case, we
can’t leave until tomorrow. It is ill-advised to travel at
night.”
Linh Thi was beside herself, pleading with
Difranco not to go. I felt responsible for her distress and told
Difranco that it was not necessary that he come with me.
“This is one of Ba’s men… He knows Ba and I
are friends. Nothing will happen to me.”
Linh Thi looked at me and then at Difranco.
“I think William is correct. He will be okay.”
I nodded at Linh Thi. “Look, he wants me to
bring Dr. Son so I will not be going alone. Let me see if he will
come along.”
Linh Thi quickly grabbed a piece of paper
and a fountain pen and wrote Dr. Son’s address on it along with a
short note in the Viet language. She then handed it to the
messenger and told him to take it to Dr. Son’s house.
“What did you write?” I asked.
“I asked if he would be willing to accompany
you to Tay Ninh tomorrow to attend to Ba.”
Difranco looked at Linh Thi and then at me.
“That’s fine, but I am still going with you, William. After all, I
made a promise to your mother that I would look out for you,” he
said with a grin.
“Christ, that was eighteen years ago,” I
said.
“My, doesn’t time fly,” he responded. “In
any case, I am coming with you.” With that, a crestfallen Linh Thi
left the room.
We were up and ready to go by five the next
morning. One of Difranco’s two-horse carriages was waiting on the
drive in front of the house. The distance to Tay Ninh from Saigon
was close to sixty miles, which meant that we would need to take
four extra horses so we could change them about every twenty-five
miles.
Dr. Son had replied to Linh Thi’s note. He
would join Difranco and me on our journey. The three of us climbed
into the carriage behind the driver. Three of Difranco’s men and
Ba’s messenger rode saddle horses. As she always did, Linh Thi
thrust a large basket of food at Difranco and then whispered
something in his ear. He laughed aloud.
“What did she say?” I asked.
“She said if I get killed, she will kill
me.”
The road to Tay Ninh was like several others
we had traveled to Difranco’s plantations. It was dry and dusty and
cracked by a merciless sun. It led out of town to the northeast
through a brown terrain covered with the shriveled stubble of
desiccated rice fields. We were in the heart of the dry season,
which meant the heat was intense, often rising to 105 degrees.
The blistering sun beat down on us as our
contingent moved along at no more than ten miles an hour. We would
need at least ten hours to reach our destination not far from a
dormant volcano that Dr. Son said was named Núi Bà Đen or Black
Virgin Mountain.
The mountain, he explained, was the center
of an ancient myth about a woman named Bà Đen, who committed
suicide on the peak after the soldier she loved betrayed her for
another woman. As we continued, we passed one thatched village
after another, most situated on the edge of parched tropical
forests.
Along the way, we wondered what might be
ailing Ba.
“I am sure it must be malaria,” Dr. Son
said. “I have brought along a few bottles of Warburg’s Tincture
just in case. It’s an antipyretic remedy containing quinine and
herbs that the British use effectively in India. If it’s something
else, like dysentery, then I am sure I will find something in
here.” He patted his leather medical bag.
About five hours into our journey, we
stopped at a small village situated along a muddy stream. There we
changed horses and took an early lunch at a small open-air
restaurant covered by a sagging thatched roof. We ate pho soup
garnished with green onions, ginger, basil and lemon wedges. Large
bowls of boiled rice adorned the table along with a platter of
stir-fried pork with peanuts, lime, and basil. A Nước mắm pha
dipping sauce was also served. It was a delightful meal even though
it was served in what most Westerners would consider primitive
conditions.
It was close to five o’clock in the
afternoon when we arrived at a spot where our road intersected with
two others. Ba’s messenger told us to wait, and he rode off down
the smaller of the two roads. We moved our horses and carriage into
the shade of the forest and relaxed on the fresh green undergrowth.
An hour later, Ba’s messenger returned with a squad of twelve armed
insurgents.
They led us down the same road for about
three miles, and then we turned onto a smaller pathway barely wide
enough for Difranco’s carriage. That path curled upward through
dense jungle-covered hills and forests of swaying coconut palms.
Difranco, Dr. Son, and I were walking now because carriage’s wheels
sank into the wet forest floor with us in it.
As we walked along the trail, I noticed a
couple of the insurgents turn to Dr. Son and point out things on
the ground and in the jungle. I caught up with Dr. Son and asked
him what they were showing him.
“They were showing me where they put mẹo
lừa,” he said. “I don’t know how to say it in English, but in
French, it is traquenard. Maybe stupid traps might be
a good translation.”
“We call them booby traps,” I said.
“Yes, well, they were showing me how to
avoid them by knowing the markings that are designed to alert
friendly forces.”
We walked a while longer, and then one of
Ba’s men stopped and pointed out a small sapling broken and bent
from the top with most of its branches stripped from it. One branch
was left on the sapling, and it pointed down the trail ahead of us.
It was a sign designed to warn friendly forces.
“Có một cái bẫy mìn 100
mét về phía trước,” the man said to Dr. Son.
“He says there is a booby trap about one
hundred yards ahead.”
A bit further on Ba’s man held up his hand
for us to stop. Then he knelt down and cleared away an area
camouflaged by brush and undergrowth on top of a thin thatched mat
that covered a rectangular area about two feet wide and four feet
long. He lifted the thatched mat to reveal about two dozen bamboo
stakes with the sharpened end facing down at an angle.
“Mẹo lừa,” the man said, flashing a pleased
smile at us.
“Mon Dieu, comment brutale,” Difranco
said.
“Brutal” was the correct word. The intent of
this trap was clear. If an enemy stepped into the trap, he would
not be able to remove his leg without sustaining grave damage. The
razor sharp sticks would rip the flesh from his leg when he tried
to pull it out.
The insurgent then closed the hatch and
returned the brush and undergrowth until it looked just like the
rest of the path. We continued on our way. Behind us, Difranco’s
driver maneuvered the horses and carriage around the trap.
About fifteen minutes later, we came to a
ring-shaped encampment protected and fortified along the outer rim
by dozens of bunkers and trenches.
A two-hundred-yard swath at the front of the
camp had been cleared of trees and brush, giving defenders a clear
field of fire clear at any attackers or unwanted intruders. At the
camp’s rear and flanks, fully exposed and parched rice paddies
stretched some seven or eight hundred yards, affording insurgents
an unobstructed view of any military force that might attempt to
attack from those positions.
Inside the camp’s parameter were a dozen or
so thatched huts built on stilts, twenty or thirty raised sleeping
platforms, a couple of cook houses, and a few larger huts that
served as command posts.
We were led to one of the larger huts, and
that is where we found Ba. He was lying on a flat bed of bamboo and
yellow matting. Near him on a shelf stood a statue of Buddha.
Smoking joss sticks sent a fragrant swirl into the air. A handful
of men squatted cross-legged near Ba, pouring over maps and talking
softly.
When Ba saw us enter, he raised himself up
on one elbow and smiled weakly.
“You came,” he said faintly. Then he coughed
and fell back onto the mat.
Dr. Son was the first to go to Ba. He
quickly examined him and then turned to Difranco and me.
“He doesn’t have malaria or dysentery. He’s
been shot.” Moments later, he issued orders in the Viet language to
boil several pots of water. In the meantime, he cut away Ba’s shirt
and turned him onto his side. A dark red and black wound revealed
where a bullet had entered his back near a kidney. Someone had
cauterized the wound without removing any shell fragments.
Then, turning to one of the men who had been
examining the maps, he asked when Ba had been shot.
When he heard the answer, Dr. Son stood up
and said, “Mon Dieu, Ce est un miracle qu’il ne est pas mort.” He
then turned to me and said, “He was shot a week ago. It’s a wonder
he is not already dead.”
Dr. Son then ordered a wooden table moved
into the hut from one of the cook sheds. He spent a few minutes
washing down the wooden table with scalding water and then had Ba
placed on it.
Ba looked up at Dr. Son, apparently in pain.
“Thank you for coming…”
“You know, of course, that I am an
ophthalmologist, not a surgeon,” Dr. Son said. “I specialize in the
eyes, not bullet wounds.”
As he spoke, Dr. Son began removing
instruments from his bag. He also produced a liter bottle of
chloroform and a small mask that he placed over Ba’s mouth and
nose. He then proceeded to sterilize an array of scalpels, forceps,
clamps, and needles. When he was ready, he turned to Difranco and
me.
“I may need your assistance… Please wash
your hands in hot water. And keep the flies away.” He poured a
small amount of chloroform onto the mask and watched as Ba’s eyes
rolled up and closed. Then he turned him over onto his stomach and
reopened the cauterized wound. Immediately, a rivulet of dark-red
blood poured forth. Dr. Son handed me a bundle of gauze
bandages.