The square’s festive illuminations shone into the clear blue night sky above the world’s most beautiful city. Dan and Tim wandered aimlessly past shops and galleries, and the breathtakingly huge Royal Mosque. Horse-drawn carriages carried a few expatriate Americans around, showing their wives a good time. “I’m glad to be out of this f*****g heat for a while.” “Yeah, the drive across from Teheran was really too much.” Four teenaged Iranian girls strolled past, all tight jeans and skirts, giggling at the two foreigners. “But it was worth the detour. The Persians really got it down, man. Imagine having a festival here. The best spot for a great gig. Perfect weather, perfect light, and great architecture for a backdrop. They could even invite the Queen and stick her on that balcony in the