CHAPTER 13
Caution: Mature content.
The day was perfect. The surf we always enjoyed, was just that, we find pleasure in doing the extreme hobby. When we were at it, Blake and I were like two fearless souls battling and challenging a vast body of fierce water. We knew it was a dangerous recreation but to us, we never come more alive than when we battle with our life while we catch, roll and ride those magnificent waves.
Thinking back from day one when my father first taught me how to swim and surf. I didn’t enjoy it as much then, I always end up eaten up by waves and drowned by my Dad’s mocking laughter. I was a thin twelve-year-old then, when Blake come into the picture, a year later, I started to enjoy surfing more and more.
Blake was a patient instructor. He encouraged and fueled my
