Chapter Two-3

2077 Words
For me, the easiest way to hogtie myself is to take an eight-foot length of braided rope, not more than 1/2 inch in diameter, with the ends burn-melted to prevent fraying. I tie it into a closed loop using a bowline or sheet bend. In other words, I make a circle of rope. By the way, these two knots are actually the same. The bowline is best if you are using the end of a rope for a loop and the sheet bend is ideal of joining the two ends of a single rope together, even if they are different size or type. So use this knot as I have suggested here. Tie a sheet bend and make it snug. Then make two double slip loops, one at each end. When you look at this, you can see it resembles a large rope handcuff, only larger. Test it by putting one wrist in one loop and pull the loop until it encircles your wrist. You will see that if you pull it tight, it will stay that way until you open the loop. Now lie on your stomach and place the double slip loop on one end around your ankles and the other around your wrists. Experiment with various lengths of rope until you get the desired effect. Longer rope means a greater distance between wrists and feet and will be easier to get out of. The shorter the rope, the smaller the slip loops and the closer your hands and feet must be. You can modify this position by tightening the ankle loops and pulling the remaining end though the space between the feet to cinch the loop, but remember that when you do this, you will no longer be able to loosen or slip the loop off your feet if there is tension on the rope. In other words, any cinching of hands or feet will make escape more difficult and having a sharp knife or razor blade nearby is important for safe escape. Once you have your feet bound with ankles either side-by-side or crossed, place your hands through the other double slip loop and test to see that you can get out of it when you want to. Remember the point made earlier about planning? This is where you need to plan carefully BEFORE you get yourself into an inescapable or hard to escape situation. So, after testing, slip your crossed or pressed together wrists through this loop. Now test the tension between your bent legs and wrists. If the rope is too long, wrap it around your ankles for another turn. You really cannot take too many turns around you feet, so use this method as the way to get the proper length, remembering that in doing so, you further inhibit freeing your feet. By bending your knees, you should be able to have enough rope for the final double loop for your hands. As always, test and experiment with this method BEFORE you tighten up, making sure that the tension between feet and hands is not so great as to lock the wrist loop to a point where you cannot release it. Note also that even though you have used a sheet bend to make the initial long loop, releasing this knot may not, in an emergency, allow you to free your hands if the hands loop is too tight or otherwise restricted. In the best case, you get out of this by arching your body a bit more, bringing your ankles close to your hands and slipping the doubled loop off your wrists. Is it better to cross your wrists or place them side my side in the double loop? I don't know. Sometimes one way works better than another. Nevertheless, what you do not want to do is place a cinch on both loops. The function of cinching any rope is to make it stay tight and in this case, you want to be able to release the wrist loop, so do not cinch it...ever. Variations on the hogtie Experienced self-bondagers will tell and show you a tremendous range of hogtie situations. One common interest position is, as I mentioned before, pulling the arms back and getting the elbows close together. This is not easy and often not safe. Perfecting such a position takes a lot of planning and testing, but it can be done. The real problem is not getting your elbows bound; it's getting out of it. As many b**m practitioners know, the combination of a chest harness, a hair tie, elbow bondage and hogtie can render even the most enthusiastic captive nearly immobile. Attempts to use the same arrangement in auto bondage can be very challenging. Since this survey asked for specifics of my own experience, I can tell you how I have, on a few occasions, managed to achieve this or part of this position. Once in it, I experienced the very strong, somewhat claustrophobic need to escape at once, the position was so strict. That back-of-the-brain fear of being abandoned for a long period in such a strict situation quickly came to the front of my head and I wanted out, quite desperately. Here's a summary of how I did this initially: First of all, I decided not to use rope or some other flexible media. I elected cuffs and chain for reasons that I will explain as we go along. My first move was to put on a stainless steel, rubber-lined, shaped collar that has several D rings on its outside circumference. I locked it and attached a two-foot long, light chain with snap hooks at each end. These snap hooks are very small and it took some time to get them into the D rings on each side of the collar. Sliding free on the chain was a two-inch brass ring with a large double snap hook attached to it. This ring slides along the chain and the snap hook makes a good attachment point for the elbow cuffs once the chain is behind me and the hooks reach down my back. In this case, the chain was not quite long enough, so I added another double snap hook to the sliding one and this brought the hook close enough to connect it with the elbow cuffs, which were not yet ready. Then I locked a pair of closely connected leg irons on my ankles. A single link of chain connected the twin cuffs and brought my ankles close together. This meant that the side-by-side ankle position was going to be used. I knew I could set this up for crossed ankles, but the side-by-side seemed stricter. I closed the security lock on the cuffs to hold them in this one setting and not tighten further. [Note: security locking any cuffs is generally a good idea, but it makes getting free more difficult because on most cuffs, you must turn the key one way and then the other to release the lock before opening the cuff]. The second binding was of my knees, using a pair of giant cuffs, designed as collars. I set them above my knees with enough space in the cuff's opening to allow for muscle expansion when my legs were pulled back and the knees well bent. I locked the bands so they would not slip tighter. Using a duplicate pair of large cuffs, I placed these just below my knees. Now my legs were quite effectively immobilized. Next, I needed a gag and selected a simple ball gag with a long dog collar chain through it. With the ball wedged deep in my mouth, I could still get some air there, as well as through my nose. The chain collar already in its closed loop, choke collar mode, was long enough to go over my head. Once the gag was in place, I put another chain on the end of the gag chain with a snap link and let it hang down my back until I needed it later. I now had two different chains resting on my back: the arched one with the sliding ring from the collar's D rings and the single one hanging down from the gag chain. My plan was to get my arms and legs fully bound, but keep my hands free. My next to final move would be to hook the long chain extension from the gag chain to my feet. This would accomplish three things: it would pull my head back, tighten the gag chain in my mouth and complete the hog tie, more or less. The final action would be to secure my hands and I had not yet really decided on what I would do with my hands other than use a pair of cuffs, but that decision was still to come. This would be a critical decision because if I could not free my hands, I could not escape. Next, I prepared a third set of the giant cuffs to fit loosely around my arms just above the elbows. These super large cuffs have large steel rings welded to them on a swivel so that they can rotate freely. This ability to turn 360 degrees may seem mundane, but in SB, especially with an elbow restraint, it is an important benefit. I tested the arrangement by placing my arms into the cuffs, sliding them up and over my elbows and then, with some difficulty, locking the snap hook hanging down from the collar chain to the welded rings on the elbow cuffs. It turned out that the only way to do this was to release the one snap hook from the D ring on the right side the collar, lower the chain until I could reach the sliding ring and its snap hook and insert the welded cuff rings into it. Then, working hard, I pulled it up and reattached the chain to the D ring on the right side of the collar. This arrangement put enough strain on the elbow cuffs to hold them closely together and left my hands and lower arms nearly parallel, but still relatively free. Even though this did not bring my elbows totally together, it was enough for the moment and I let it stand as it was. At the risk of over-explaining this, it is important to understand that if I locked the elbow cuffs firmly on my upper arms, I could not find a way to connect the welded rings to the collar chain. Someone with more versatile joints and agility may be able to do this, but I needed to be able to slide these cuffs on and off my arms if necessary. I was almost done and sweating madly, even though I had not a single stitch of clothing on, having removed the bra and thong that I originally thought would go nicely with the position. There is something more erotic, I think, about rolling around on a hard wood floor or carpet, fully bound and gagged, in bra and panties and even stockings, if everything else is just right. In my fantasy, it follows that my male captors would enjoy the sight of a chained woman in her skimpy bra and panties, writhing about on the floor and totally at their mercy.[iii] In this case, my safety sense was running so high that I decided to skip the underwear entirely. So, my next move was to place a single hand cuff on each wrist. These cuffs were modified and not connected with the usual chain links. Instead, they had a large brass snap hook joined to the cuff itself with a split ring on a swivel fitting. In this position, I could not easily lock the ratchet on these cuffs,[iv] so I just put them on, tested the snap hooks to see how much slack I would have and then released them, freeing my hands once again. Now came the critical final moves: connecting the gag chain to my feet and reconnecting my hands. I brought my feet up and back so that I could actually grab hold of my toes and instep with my hands. Keeping one hand on my feet, I used the other to grab the end of the gag chain extension, connect its snap hook to a ring on the ankle cuffs and slowly let go with my hands. My legs relaxed a bit and then the tension increased on the gag collar chain, pulling it deeper and setting up a nice pressure to hold my head back and my legs bent.
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