“So, has it changed, Dad?”
Dan stared through the window, unable to take his eyes off the chaotic traffic they headed into. Trucks, buses, cars, motor and cycle rickshaws, motorbikes, scooters, ox-carts, hand-pulled carts, bicycles, cows and pedestrians jostled for space on a narrow and potholed two-lane street. Chattering rooftop monkeys applauded the confusion. The air was thick with exhaust fumes.
The clapped-out Toyota taxi narrowly avoided a scooter loaded with an entire family, the mother riding side-saddle, without helmet, an infant clutched to her breast. A young boy balanced somewhere between his father and the handlebars. The teenage daughter had squeezed in between her parents.
The young driver shouted out of the window and then turned to his passengers; his foot firmly plant
