The team arrived at the valley of Dengboche under a cloudy sky and a chill wind a little after 4:00 PM. As Sarah poled behind the men down the path running along the outskirts of the tiny settlement, she eyed the helter-skelter grid of empty corrals that sprawled out over the sloping dun landscape. Viewing the lain stone pens, she suddenly found herself thrown back to the days when she watched John Wayne and Henry Fonda westerns on Saturday morning TV. If she closed her eyes, she could almost imagine sagebrush rolling over the empty hard-packed soil along with the sounds of horse-drawn wagons rolling into town.
A hundred yards further up, Frank turned and led the team around a wide bend, passing small shops and stores selling their wares out in front. As they went by, Sarah noticed signs
