CHAPTER 17 Strong tailwinds and scarce northbound traffic on I-17 allowed me to peg the speedometer at 80, so in no time at all I skimmed past the small, mountain-rimmed communities of New River, Rock Springs and Black Canyon City, where I began the steep ascent towards Sunset Point. I arrived at the Bumble Bee exit in just over an hour and twenty minutes, and headed downhill into the remote valley, dazzled by the breathtaking scenery. It was an optical illusion of course, but somehow the intermittent patches of snow decorating the craggy tops of the Bradshaw Mountains made them appear higher, more imposing and majestic. Fast-moving clouds patterned the vast juniper-mesquite-and cactus-dotted slopes with irregular shadows, adding rich texture to the deep canyons and jagged rock outcro