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It"s a perfect September day, bright sunshine and a cool fresh breeze. Still, with an eye on the fish-scale clouds above and a possible change in the weather, I wrap up warm, dressing in layers. We follow the beach, just ambling, taking in air tanged with brine and seaweed. At our feet, the wind picks up stray grains of sand, carrying them to bounce staccato over the wet surface until the water catches them again and they settle into the rippled sand. To our right, the stems of tough yellow sea grass, rattle and shiver, ruffled by the breeze, whispering their song over the dune. Insects chirrup and buzz, then fall silent as I turn to see the source of the sound. To our left, the rush and fizz of foaming water. Walking hand in hand, his wedding ring rubs against my fingers, a reminder of