13 Eight years earlier The sun beats down on the back of our necks as we try to hug the shade. Anything after ten o’clock in the morning is unbearable in Oualidia at this time of year. The Moroccan coast has played host to a heatwave for the past three or four weeks, according to the locals. People joke that no-one comes home from their honeymoon with a tan as they’re too busy staying in their hotel room, and we may well have that problem for very different reasons. Air conditioning. When we have dared to venture out we’ve been hopping from bar to bar, necking cool drinks and enjoying the fans blowing slightly less warm air across us. Believe it or not, the temperature has dropped a little today — it’s only in the high thirties as opposed to the mid forties — so we decided we’d head to