Chapter 11With Eichel now a bad memory and no longer a threat,
the voyage to Manila Bay was fast and uneventful. The China
arrived on a Sunday morning, and Katharina and I agreed to leave
the ship together. Pacific cable communication service between the
United States and the Far East wouldn’t be established until some
nine years later. So there had been no way to alert her brother
that she had left San Francisco and was on her way.
Before we disembarked, we met with Captain
Kreitz and Deputy Captain Partington. They wondered about Eichel
and why he had decided to leave the ship in Hong Kong. Katharina
said she assumed he decided his mission on behalf of the German
government had failed, and he was going to return to San
Francisco.
I didn’t know if the two men were satisfied
with that explanation. Partington informed us that the China
would remain in Manila another five days, taking on supplies,
adding some crew, conducting some engine work, and repairing
whatever damage had been done while riding out the typhoon.
We said our good-byes to Kreitz and
Partington, and Potts agreed to have Katharina’s trunks sent to her
brother’s residence in Manila’s affluent Santa Cruz district. Potts
refused to take another five-dollar bonus from me, insisting that
he hadn’t earned it. Of course, as far as I was concerned he had
more than earned the money I had given him during the voyage.
After leaving the ship, Katharina and I
flagged down a carromata, one of Manila’s ubiquitous horse-drawn,
two-wheeled carts. We sat in the rear seat, protected from the hot
Philippine sun by a retractable canvas top, while the driver sat
exposed in the front.
Ten minutes later, we pulled up in front of
Manfred Messner’s house. It was a sprawling two-story Spanish style
building with cream-colored adobe walls. An upper story of
varnished wood projected far over the lower floor with a broadly
covered balcony and large ornamental dormer windows that opened to
let in the ocean breezes.
A wide covered veranda encircled three sides
of the house, which was surrounded by a forest of magnolia, acacia,
and palms trees. Behind the house were banana and pomelo trees
heavy with fruit. A ten-foot-high stucco wall implanted along its
top with shards of broken glass surrounded the property—an addition
that was apparently de rigueur for wealthy Filipino and foreign
residents of Manila.
We walked through a wrought-iron gate and up
a few steps to the veranda and stood before a heavy ten-foot-high
teakwood door affixed with a heavy iron knocker. Katharina lifted
it and let it fall. A few seconds later, the door opened, and a
Filipino man in a white barong and black trousers stood facing
us.
He looked us over carefully. Before he could
say anything, Katharina spoke up.
“I am Katharina Schreiber, Manfred Messner’s
sister from the United States, and this is Mr. William Battles from
Kansas. We have come to visit my brother.”
The Filipino man stepped quickly aside,
bowed slightly, and ushered us into a large living room.
“Por favor, espera aquí… voy a llegar el
señor Messner,” the man said. I hadn’t heard Spanish in quite a
while, but I understood that much. We were to wait where he had
taken us, and he would find Katharina’s brother.
“Muchas gracias,” I said.
“So among your other legendary
accomplishments, you are also a Spanish linguist?” Katharina asked
in her uniquely facetious way.
“Hardly, but I picked up a bit here and
there.”
“Uh huh… Well, it will come in handy here. I
am not sure how many people here speak English, and I am sure
barely a handful can speak German.”
The two of us settled onto a wicker settee.
I looked around the room, which was a good forty by fifty feet
square. Its walls were finished in molave hardwood with shelves
laden with blue and white oriental vases, small statues of bronze
and wood, and a plethora of other knick-knacks. The floors were
polished mahogany, covered here and there by lush multicolored
oriental carpets. Bamboo and rattan furniture was distributed
throughout the room along with ornate native wood cabinets and a
Bösendorfer grand piano. Manfred Messner was obviously doing quite
well with his trading company and lumber business.
I was about to remark on that when an
angular, long-limbed man who looked to be about six feet tall
walked in and stopped in his tracks.
“I don’t believe it… Katharina, Carlos told
me it was you, but I didn’t believe it.”
Katharina stood up, rushed toward her
brother, and threw her arms around him.
“Oh, Manfred, you will not believe the
improbable journey I have had from San Francisco.”
He looked from Katharina to me. “I see.”
Manfred was a hatchet-faced man who looked
to be in his late thirties. He had flashing steely blue eyes that
were wide set above a bladelike nose and a thin-lipped mouth. Along
the right side of his face was a noticeable liverish scar that ran
from the lobe of his ear almost to his mouth.
Katharina laughed. “No, no, it’s nothing
like that. This is William Battles from Kansas on his way to
Saigon. He was kind enough to help me when things got complicated
during the journey.”
“Complicated,” Manfred repeated.
“How?”
Before Katharina could answer, he walked
over and extended his hand. “Happy to meet you, Mr. Battles.
Welcome to Manila.”
We shook hands, and then we all settled into
large rattan armchairs, and Katharina spent the next half hour
describing the voyage from San Francisco, including the encounter
with Oskar Eichel and the eventual resolution of that
predicament.
“Poor bugger… I can imagine nothing worse
than being shanghaied,” he said. “Still, Mr. Battles, I must thank
you for looking out for my sister… even though she usually does
pretty well on her own… except when it comes to husbands.”
Katharina shot me a sheepish glance at that
comment. “Husband, Manfred, please… I only had one… and as far as I
am concerned, one was enough.”
“Now, now, Katharina. Not all men are cut
from the same cloth that Rupert was… right, Mr. Battles?”
“I have known a few like him… but I would
say he and others like him are the exception.”
Katharina laughed. “You men do stick
together, don’t you? By the way, Mr. Battles here is a famous
Kansas lawman who consorted with any number of famous and infamous
galoots.”
Manfred looked at me and smiled. “You have
to forgive my sister… She has a vivid imagination.”
Katharina’s eyes focused on Manfred’s face
and the prominent scar. “It looks like that wound is healing
nicely.”
“As well as can be expected,” Manfred
interrupted.
“Well, I think it makes you look quite the
German aristocrat… like you have a Schmiss..”
I had heard that term before. Translated
into English, it meant “fencing scar.” In Germany, it was
considered almost obligatory among upper-class university students
who often belonged to fencing clubs. They intentionally allowed
themselves to be cut on the cheek with a foil or saber as a sign of
character and courage.
“I could do without it,” Manfred said.
“And I could do with a scorching bath,”
Katharina replied.
“Right. Let’s get you both settled. Mr.
Battles, I hope you will be my guest as long as you are in
Manila.”
“Of course he will,” Katharina said before I
could reply. “We can’t have a Kansas sand cutter wandering the
streets of Manila by himself. He might get shanghaied.”
Manfred Messner’s house was enormous. In
addition to the living room, there was a dining room with a table
that could accommodate fourteen people. There was also a library
with floor-to-ceiling bookshelves and several overstuffed chairs.
Near the library was a sitting room for informal occasions, a
sizeable office, a billiard room, an indoor bathroom, and a large
kitchen outfitted with the latest appliances.
There were eight bedrooms upstairs,
including the master suite. A large semi-enclosed roofed porch
replete with chairs and settees was accessible from every bedroom.
There were three more indoor bathrooms and another large room in
the rear that was locked.
Carlos showed me to my room while a woman
named Grace took Katharina to hers—a room next door to her
brother’s that was connected by a common door.
I could get used to living in Asia, I
thought to myself. Of course, I had no job, no prospects, or any
idea what I would find once I arrived in Saigon. Signore Difranco
didn’t even know I was coming. What would I do if he were no longer
in Saigon and gone back to France or Italy? If that were the case,
it would be a long trip back to the United States. I shuddered at
the thought of another three weeks or so on a ship.
Like Katharina, I decided to take a long hot
bath. Bathing aboard the SS China had been limited to an
undersized bathtub in my cabin’s water closet, and I must admit I
used it only occasionally. The bathrooms in Manfred Messner’s house
were bigger than some dwellings I had been in on the Kansas plains.
Most impressive was the running water, which was pumped up from a
four-hundred-gallon water heater located behind the house. It was
piping hot.
The three of us had a leisurely dinner that
night, and the next morning, after breakfast, Manfred took the day
off to show us around Manila.
As we rode through the city in his stylish
French Victoria carriage, Manfred explained that the Pasig River
divided Manila into two sections. On the south side of the old
walled city were the large districts of Malate, Ermita, and Paco.
On the north side was the principal retail business street, the
Calle de la Escolta—a narrow street barely four blocks long in the
Binondo district that ran east-west parallel to the Pasig
River.
“Hard to believe, but the Escolta has been
here since 1594, and this year is its three-hundredth birthday,”
Manfred said. “It is the center of life in Manila.”
The Escolta was lined by two and three-story
buildings housing small shops and other businesses. Manfred’s M. K.
Trading and Lumber Co. was one of them. Men in white cotton pants
and jackets and straw hats strolled past shops that were filled
with merchandise from Europe. The street itself was choked with
horse drawn trams, carromata, and dozens of slow-moving carabao
carts hauling freight, vegetables, and fruit for sale at the
markets.
“Carabaos are the water buffalo of the
Philippines,” Manfred said. “They are slow, lumbering beasts that
are obedient so long as they get a daily swim in the river. And you
don’t want to be in front of one when it is angry.”
From the Escolta, we moved over the heavily
traveled Puente de España or the Bridge of Spain that spanned the
Pasig River and connected the old walled city to the Binondo
business district. The gray stone bridge was put up in the early
seventeenth century and was one of the oldest structures in
Manila.
We then drove through the Puerta Real gate
into the old walled city known as the Intramuros. High stone walls
that were built by the Spanish in the early sixteenth century to
protect the city from Chinese pirates surrounded the old town. They
were impressive—forty feet thick at some points. Fort Santiago,
which forms the northwest corner of the wall facing Manila Bay, was
later built into the wall.
Touring Manila was an eye-opening experience
for me. For one thing, I had never seen structures so old in my
life. Back in Kansas, buildings that were fifty or sixty years old
were considered ancient. For another, I had no idea that a city
like Manila existed in Asia. It reminded me of Mexico.
Katharina seemed to sense my amazement.
“Rather marvelous, isn’t it?” she said.
Then looking at Manfred, she added, “No
wonder you choose to live here… It is much more charming than
Chicago.”
“Yes, but it has its faults too,” Manfred
said. Then looking around carefully, he added, “Not the least of
which are the Spanish masters who have generally enslaved the
Filipino people for the last 350 years.”
It occurred to me that what Manfred said
seemed to be a recurring theme in Asia.
Two days later, that subject became a heated
topic of discussion at a dinner Manfred gave for a few Spanish,
German, English, and Filipino friends—including the Filipino
novelist, poet, journalist, ophthalmologist, and nationalist, Dr.
José Rizal.
As we gathered in Manfred’s spacious living
room, Manfred introduced me to Rizal—a clean-shaven, slim man with
black wavy hair, and dark, intense eyes. He looked to be just about
the same age as I was.
“Mr. Battles, I would like to introduce you
to another journalist, Dr. José Rizal.” Katharina and I were
standing together, and instead of taking my hand, Rizal extended
his hand to her.