Camden Lock is never still. Thousands of tourists visit it each day, looking for edgy London and cheap retro clothing from the stalls in the arches of the nearby market. Unfortunately, they arrive to find that the edge is terribly dull, and the big chains have moved in and choked the poor place to death. Expensive ice cream, artisan coffee, sneaker emporiums and well-fed pickpockets are in residence these days, and business is good. There are some interesting bars and pubs though, and after dark, the Lock comes alive to the sound of new bands, recently arrived in the capital in their barely street-legal transit vans, and touts selling marked-up tickets for clubs and comedy events at the Roundhouse. Down on the surface of the canals, boats have been turned into taxis and landing stages hav